Montreal Smoked Meat

Have you ever had Smoked Meat? Montreal smoked meat? Viande fumée?

It’s compared to pastrami, but that’s just … wrong. It’s a variation on corned beef the same way the sail is a variation on a wind turbine. 

Like most meat that’s smoked - it’s about the cure in seasonings: cracked peppercorns, coriander, garlic, mustard seed, and so much more. The Montreal Steak spice is somewhat similar, but not quite.

The meat itself is always a variable-fat brisket. It has a larger cap of fat and a more fibrous texture that responds well to the combination of a long slow brine-cure, followed by a slow smoke and a steaming – ideally just before serving.

The cut can be lean, medium, or fat - but you rarely see actual fat in the cut you’re served. The steaming reduces the fat into a gentle gravy that lovingly coats each slice.

The slices are thin and come in a multitude. It should always be served between two pieces of pale rye bread; but smoked meat has made its way into several different foods: spaghetti, poutine, egg rolls, and so much more.

The sandwich is typically served with a kosher dill and a mountain of fresh cut french fries, golden brown and still steaming. Mustard is an acceptable condiment for the sandwich but only if it’s traditional yellow (ball park) mustard.

Why the fuss over a simple sandwich?

You need to try it. 

No, I’m not kidding. It should be cut to order and served steaming between the fresh rye bread. The result is so much better than the sum of its parts!

Where to find it?

You can get it at almost any diner, deli, or lunch counter (even the supermarket) in Montreal. But, if you really want to taste a great sandwich, there are only a few places you should try:

• Schwartz's Deli.  The iconic deli that made its reputation on smoked meat. It is a perennial favorite among Montrealers. There is only one location, and the line ups can be legendary. Seating inside is picnic style, so don’t ask for a private table. Attitude of the servers is as sharp as the kosher pickles. Go in with a smile and take it in stride, it will earn you the server’s respect and potentially more jokes.

• Lester’s Deli. A rival to Schwartz’s, it is a point of contention whether this is the number 2 spot in the city or number 1. I prefer its coleslaw (sacrilege!) but find the meat less peppery.
• Smoked Meat Pete. For those who live to the west (the west island if you will), Smoked Meat Pete is the best of the best. They offer the traditional style smoked meat, but it is not as peppery as Schwartz. If Schwartz's lineups are legendary - then I don’t know how to express what occurs at Smoked Meat Pete when the weather weakens in the spring and people can eat outside again.
• Dunn’s. A surprisingly good middle of the road offering, Dunn’s menu offers the classics as well as a few twists (smoked meat egg rolls are not to be missed, although smoked meat spaghetti is a classic). It’s the best recommendation if you’re going with several people with varied diets. But then again, you’re going for the smoked meat, right?
• Snowdon Deli. Last but absolutely not least, Snowdon deli is a kosher-style deli. If you want an original taste of Montreal, then this is the spot. Their karnatzel and potato latkes are a must; but their smoked meat is not to be missed.